The design of a hand mitre saw may vary slightly between brands,but most have the same basic parts:
Blade
Blades are available which can cut through hard and soft wood, plastic and non-ferrous metals.
Because the blade is quite thin, hand mitre saws are not designed for cutting very thick pieces of material.
The blade on a hand mitre saw can be removed from the frame, usually by loosening a screw under the handle.
Blade length
Blades come in several different lengths ranging from 500 – 630mm (19.6-24.8″ approx.)
Most models of hand mitre saw will allow you to adjust the frame to accommodate a range of different blade sizes, however it’s worth double checking with the manufacturer before you purchase, as there may be some exceptions.
Teeth Per Inch (TPI)
Blades usually have been 14 and 32 teeth per inch. Here is a general guide to selecting the right TPI for your hand mitre saw:
14 TPI – General woodworking
18 TPI – Delicate woodworking applications
24 TPI – Cutting metal or picture framing
32 TPI – Cutting non-ferrous metal
Cutting stroke
The teeth on a hand mitre blade are usually designed to cut on both the push and the pull stroke.
For more information, see our section: Push stroke saws vs. pull stroke saws
Finish
Overall, hand mitre blades have a high TPI, so even the lowest TPI blade will produce a neat finish. This is because the teeth are relatively small with shallow gullets, so they remove less material with each stroke.
Handle
The type of handle found on a hand mitre saw is known as a ‘closed pistol grip handle’. This type of handle is usually found on saws with larger or longer blades which are designed for faster cutting.
The large handle supports the blade, and because it’s closed, the user’s hand is less likely to slip out when sawing quickly.
Rod and wing nut
Adjusting the wing nut alters how tightly the blade is stretched in the frame.
Frame
The frame is made from plastic and metal and supports the blade.
Pivot
The pivot allows you to move the saw to the correct angle for your application and then ‘lock’ it in place while working.
Angle guide
This has a number of angles marked on it. Align your saw with the angle you require using the pivot.
Bench
Your material is placed on here when sawing
Feet
These allow the saw to be fastened securely to your worktop or bench.
Clamp
This holds your work piece securely while sawing.
Fence
The fence supports the back of your material when sawing.
Guide rods
The saw moves through these rods which help to keep it cutting in a straight line. Though the blade moves through them, the blade does not come into contact with the rods.