Post Rammer Care and Maintenance

29th February 2020


	Post rammer maintenance and care



	Shop for Fencing Mauls and Post Rammers

			Rammers require very little attention and minimal maintenance, unless they are left open to the elements for a substantial period of time. This could result in weld failure (where the weld cracks and the metal separates) caused by rusting, corrosion or misuse.

			How is the top of a post rammer fitted?
			The top of the rammer can be up to 38mm (1½”) in thickness and is the most substantial part of the tool, with thick fillet welding (a type of welding for filling in gaps when manufactured) around the steel top plate to secure it in place.

			It is important that the plate is well secured, as it is the area that takes the pounding action when the rammer is lifted and dropped into place.

			Post rammers are constructed from heavy-duty steel. They are supplied with a powder coating, which may flake away, rub off or even rust over time if exposed to the elements.

			If your rammer becomes an unsightly mess, possibly because it was left out all winter and needs some tender loving care, there are a few options: Paint with red oxide primer Powder coating Galvanizing

			Cleaning old paint or rust from a post rammer
			Post rammers, when new, are usually powder coated by the manufacturers. This coating gives a smooth finish, provides a protective layer and is pleasing to the eye. Before you apply a new coating of your choice, you will need to remove the old powder coated layer. This can be done in two ways: Good old elbow grease Abrasive blasting

			Elbow grease This is the more labour intensive way of removing powder coat, using wire wool, wire brushes (these can be used in electric drills) and coarse sandpaper to rub away at any powder coating that is still on the post rammer until you are left with a smooth surface. This can take hours of painstaking rubbing as you have no way of knowing how thickly the coating was applied.

			Abrasive blasting (or sand blasting) Abrasive blasting is when fine pieces of material (usually sand, crushed walnut shells or glass beads), are fired, under pressure, at a surface. This removes any rust or coating and give a smooth finish ready for a new coating to be applied.

			Red oxide primer
			What is red oxide primer? This protective, solvent-based paint helps to prevent corrosion. When applied to a new or rusted metal, it provides a protective barrier against rust or further rusting.

			Why apply red oxide primer? Provides a smooth surface for painting Rust prevention/resistance Oil based – It won’t wash off with water Lead free – environmentally friendly Unlike ordinary paint, which lies on the surface of the metal, red oxide primer interacts with the surface chemical bonds. No moisture or air is trapped between the paint and the metal, and this prevents rusting.

			How should you apply the primer? There are several methods of applying the red oxide primer:

			Traditional brush method Using a nylon or polyester-bristled brush.

			Roller method Short pile woven roller is ideal for this type of primer. Some manufacturers suggest thinning down the primer for ease of application, so check the product specification to see if this applies to yours.

			Airless spray gun This method is an option if you have access to a spray gun. The nozzle type and volume of thinners required will be stated in the manufacturer’s instructions.

			How to apply red oxide primer
			Step 1 – Remove rust and old paint Remove any rust, old paint or dirt from the surface with your chosen method.

			Step 2 – Clean Using thinners, wipe over the surface to take away any grease, oil or remaining dirt.

			Step 3 – Apply Primer Take your chosen method of application and following the manufacturer’s instructions, apply the primer, then allow to dry.

			How long does it take to dry? At room temperature (roughly 20^oC) the primer takes the following approximate times to dry: Touch dry 1-2 hours Hard dry – no tackiness 4-6 hours Overcoat – second coat 16-24 hours

			These times depend on three factors: air temperature, primer thickness, and primer brand.

			Powder coating
			What is powder coating? Powder coating is a hard resin coating with a smooth finish. It’s a free flowing dry powder that is applied and then cured under heat. Powder coating is however more expensive the smaller the item to be coated. It can be applied on top of a galvanized material, but not one that has been painted with primer.

			This type of coating is much tougher than paint, but can still be chipped and damaged under heavy use.


			How is powder coating applied? For powder coating to stick, you need to have the item abrasive blasted first. This will make the metal porous, allowing the coating to adhere. Powder coating is applied electrostatically (difference of electric charges) with an imbalance created between the metal and the powder particles

			The metal is clamped and negatively charged by an earth current passing through it, the powder coating gun passes the powder particles over a high voltage electrode and positively charges them. When the gun is fired at the metal, the positively charged powder particles are drawn to the negatively charged metal, sticking them to the surface.

			How does powder coating dry? Once coated, the item is then put into an oven or under ultra violet light at 175^oC to 190^oC for about 10 minutes.

			Galvanizing
			What is galvanizing? Galvanization is the process in which zinc and steel are bonded together to produce a hard-wearing and weather-resistant coating.

			How to galvanize your post rammer
			Galvanizing, unfortunately, is not a process than can be undertaken in your own home. Due to the processes involved, the rammer needs to be taken to a company that specializes in the galvanizing.

			What is the hot dip process involved in galvanizing?
			Dip 1 First the rammer is dipped in a tank of caustic soda, a degreasing agent that removes grease, dirt and other contaminants.

			Dip 2 It is then dipped in a rinse tank to clean away the caustic soda.

			Dip 3 Next, the rammer is pickled in a hydrochloric acid solution, to remove any mill scale (iron oxides) and rust from the steel.

			Dip 4 The rammer is then rinsed in a tank to clean away the hydrochloric acid.

			Dip 5 It is then immersed in a flux solution of zinc ammonium chloride, to remove any final traces of oxides that may have remained on the steel. This allows the molten zinc to attach to the steel’s surface.

			Dip 6 The rammer is then placed under a dryer to heat the metal up to similar temperature to the molten zinc. This avoids any distortion when the steel is dipped.

			Dip 7 Following this, it is dipped into a molten bath of zinc heated at 450^oC where a reaction occurs, to bond the zinc to the steel.

			Dip 8 Finally the rammer is cooled and inspected to ensure all surfaces are covered, and no faults have occurred during galvanization.

			Why galvanizing? Galvanization forms a very tough coating which has the potential to last the life of the rammer. The zinc coating weathers at a very slow rate and provides total coverage with a physical barrier, meaning that little maintenance is required. Although the initial outlay for the process is more expensive, it should only be required once for the life of the tool.