Most shoe knife blades are made of carbon steel. This is a metal alloy formed by mixing iron and carbon, along with a few trace elements such as copper and manganese.
Even a tiny amount of carbon makes steel much stronger, although the more carbon added, the harder and more brittle the steel becomes. Carbon content typically ranges from 0.05% to 2%.
Stainless steel
Stainless steel is a steel alloy made up of at least 10.5% chromium, which is a hard, shiny metal that resists tarnishing. This mixture of metals creates an alloy which doesn’t stain or rust when it gets wet.
Chrome vanadium steel
Chrome vanadium steel is an alloy consisting of about 96.5% iron, with the rest made up mainly of chromium, a metallic element called vanadium, and carbon.
The vanadium makes the mixture stronger, yet lighter, than other steel alloys, while the chromium gives it a shiny finish and makes it more resistant to rust and stains.
Which blade is best?
It’s best to be guided by the price. With carbon steel blades, the cheaper ones are likely to contain less carbon so might not be very strong.
Vanadium is very expensive, so low priced chrome vanadium steel knives might only contain a microscopic amount. There won’t be much chrome either. Some manufacturers will plate knives with a thin layer of nickel to give the appearance of a chrome finish.
High carbon steel and good quality chrome vanadium steel knives are the best choice for heavy duty cutting such as in leatherwork or bookbinding.
Handle
Rosewood
Some handles are made of rosewood. This is a name given to many types of reddish brown hardwood trees grown in tropical and subtropical countries including South America, India, Africa and Australia.
It’s expensive but very tough and durable, with a dense (tightly packed) grain which makes it ideal for holding screws and rivets.
Beech
Beech is a pale hardwood with a straight, compact grain which gives it strength. It has good shock resistance and feels pleasant to hold. Beech is lighter and less expensive than rosewood but is not as hard.
Plastic
Plastic handles are cheaper and lighter than wooden ones, and can be moulded to fit the hand more comfortably. They’re also easier to keep clean. However, they can become slippery in sweaty hands!
Steel
Carbon steel or stainless steel handles are extremely strong, but are less easy to grip than wooden or plastic ones unless you add a leather sheath.
All-metal shoe knives like these are very tough and hard-wearing, as they’re made out of a single piece of steel and don’t need rivets or glue to hold the handle on.
Which handle is best?
Steel and stainless steel handles are the strongest, so are best for lots of heavy duty cutting such as in shoemaking. Stainless steel handles are easiest to look after.
Rosewood handles are both attractive and long-lasting, and probably strike the best balance between durability and comfort. However, beech handles are lighter in the hand.