After the sole, also called an outsole, has been glued on, you need to trim away any excess material from around the edges. A strong knife with a short, sharp blade is best for this.
Step 1 – Prepare to cut
Put the knife in a leather sheath if you have one, to give extra grip. Hold the shoe knife close to its tip, with the cutting edge facing towards you and your thumb resting against the side of the shoe for support.
Carefully cut into the sole at a shallow angle.
Step 2 – Pull knife upwards
In a smooth sweeping motion, pull the knife slowly upwards to peel away the edge of the sole.
Take care not to cut too deeply – if you take off too much, it can’t be replaced and you’ll have to start again with a new sole.
Step 3 – Trim around sole
Carry on trimming the rest of the way round the sole, keeping the blade upright so it doesn’t catch on the leather upper and damage it.
You may have to go round several times until you’ve trimmed enough off, but it’s best to be cautious and take too little off rather than too much.
Step 4 – Smooth edge of sole
When you’ve finished trimming, use a broad file or flat-bladed knife to smooth off any rough edges around the sole.
Step 5 – Trim heel
Finally you can glue all the layers on to make the heel. When the adhesive has dried, take up your sharp knife again and trim round the edges to create a clean-looking finish.