An Essex flange is used to add extra connections to a hot water cylinder (for example: a power shower connection).
Note: a piece of wire is always supplied with an Essex flange, and it is essential you have it for the installation process.
Step 1 – Disassemble Essex flange
Position yourself in front of the cylinder that you wish to add a connection to and have your Essex flange ready (all parts disassembled from the main body).
Step 2 – Cut hole in lagging
Take a utility knife and cut a square hole out of the lagging (insulation). Make sure your hole is an inch or two below the top seam of the cylinder.
Step 3 – Pry out lagging
Pry out the cut lagging with a screwdriver.
Step 4 – Draw circle
Draw a circle around your brass washer.
Remember to make sure it is about an inch below the cylinder seam. You do not want to cut into the cylinder seam as this will fundamentally weaken the immersion heater.
Step 5 – Mark centre point
Mark a dot in the centre of the circle you have just drawn.
You can do this by eye or measure it with a ruler to be precise.
Step 6 – Drill pilot hole
Drill a pilot hole through the central dot. You can use the pilot drill bit on your hole saw (if it has one).
Step 7 – Select correct sized hole saw
Choose a hole saw that is the same size as the diameter of the body of your Essex flange.
Step 8 – Cut out hole
Using the pilot hole as a guide, cut a hole into the body of your cylinder. (This should leave a space between the drawn circle and the hole which is roughly the same size as your brass washer).
Step 9 – Straighten wire
Take your piece of wire and straighten it out. Make sure the knotted end of the wire remains knotted and the arms stick out.
Step 10 – Insert wire
Insert the wire through the body of your Essex flange so that when you hold the wire by its straight end, the Essex flange dangles but does not fall off the wire. A bit like if you were playing conkers.
Step 11 – Insert Essex flange
Insert the Essex flange into your newly-cut hole (lug end first).
Once the Essex flange is inside the cylinder, do not let go of the wire.
Step 12 – Internal brass washer (split)
Take your internal brass washer, slip it over the end of the wire and insert it through the hole.
The internal brass washer has a split in it so that you can slip it into the immersion heater cylinder in a similar way to putting a key onto a keyring.
Step 13 – Insert rubber washer
Take your internal rubber washer, slip it over the wire and insert it through the hole. You will need to bend it to fit it through the hole.
Step 14 – Pull wire
Pull the wire until the threads of the Essex flange protrude back out of the cylinder. Do not pull too hard.
This will secure the two internal washers against the immersion heater cylinder wall.
Step 15 – External rubber washer
Slip the external rubber washer over the wire and over the threads of the Essex flange.
Step 16 – External brass washer (solid)
Slip the external (solid) brass washer over the wire and over the threads of the Essex flange.
Step 17 – Back nut
Slip the back nut over the wire and begin to screw it onto the threads of the Essex flange body.
Step 18 – Tighten
Tighten the back nut by hand. This will secure all of the parts in place and you can let go of the wire.
Using a pair of mole grips or a spanner, fully tighten the back nut.
Step 19 – Pull wire back through
Pull the wire back out through the hole. You may need to pull quite hard to bend the knotted end and arms.